Cracked, sinking or pooling garage floor? We dig out soft spots, pack the base and pour a new slab that drains and cures right.
Garage floor concrete in Balch Springs means a new slab laid on well-compacted soil or fill, with the ground and the slab both sloped so water runs off. At Balch Springs Concrete we build it from the dirt up so it stays solid under your car.
Most calls start with a floor that's cracked, sunk in one corner or holding water by the door. The slab usually isn't the whole story, because a base that was raked level instead of dug out and packed settles with the dirt, and the concrete follows it down.
The price moves with the size of the garage, whether an old floor has to be broken out and hauled off, and how much soft ground has to come out before we can build back up. The schedule turns on the permit and inspection, if the job needs them, and on the cure, when the car stays out of the garage for a while. I walk the job, measure it and write down what the price covers, so you see your own number and what's in it.
Every job follows the same few steps, and I'm the one you deal with from the first visit on.
You call or send a message, and I come out to measure the garage and look the site over with you, the way I've done on every estimate since I started this business in 2023. I'll point out what I can see, like soft ground or water marks, and tell you what I can't know until the old floor is up.
You get a written estimate that spells out what the price covers, so you're not guessing what's included. Once you say yes, we take care of the permit side and set the pour date around the inspection.
I'm on the job with our crew from setting the forms through the pour and the cleanup, so the person who measured is the one checking the work. We're licensed and insured, and when you're ready, call (214) 286-6733 or use our estimate form.
If there's an old floor, we break it out and haul it off first. Then we dig out the topsoil and any soft spots and compact what's left, so the subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, is firm before anything else happens. We set the forms and slope the base and the slab so water runs out of the garage, place the steel, pour and finish. Then we cut control joints, shallow cuts that give the slab a straight line to crack along instead of a random one. Curing, which means keeping the new concrete moist while it hardens, starts as soon as the finishing is done. If the budget has to give somewhere, I'll tell you to spend it on the base and keep the finish plain, because nobody sees the base on day one but it decides how the floor holds up years later.
Some garage jobs tie into other work. If you'd like the floor or the approach to look like more than plain gray, our decorative concrete work covers that. Where the garage sits low or the yard beside the drive is slipping, we build concrete retaining walls to hold the ground back.
This is how your garage looks at each stage, so nothing catches you off guard.
We'll need the garage empty. If the old floor is coming out, that day is loud and dusty while we break it up and haul it off, and the bare dirt underneath is where I find out what's really there.
We dig out the soft spots, pack the base and set the forms, then I check the slope and the measurements again before the truck gets called. It doesn't look like much, but it's the part I care about most.
The truck comes, we place and level the concrete, finish the surface and cut the joints. In hot weather we keep an eye on the heat, because a top that dries out too fast can turn weak and dusty later.
The new floor needs time before you walk on it and longer before the car goes back in, and I'll tell you when each is safe for your slab before we pack up. We leave the garage clean when we go.
Send us a few lines about your garage, or call (214) 286-6733, and we'll get back to you within one business day. I'll set a time to come out, measure and look the site over with you. Then you get a free written estimate, with no obligation to go ahead.
(214) 286-6733Some, yes, because all concrete tends to crack and a completely crack-free floor isn't possible. Wire mesh or other reinforcement can't stop cracks, but placed in the right spot it keeps them narrow, so ask any crew where theirs will sit. I'll show you where ours sits before the pour.
National concrete guidance says to start curing as soon as possible and keep it going for at least 3 days, with a sprayed curing compound or damp burlap kept moist. That wait matters because curing is a big part of what makes a floor durable and less likely to crack.
The city asks for a site map showing the scope of work, and an HOA approval letter if your neighborhood has an HOA, so it helps to request that letter early. If the job breaks the curb, the permit also asks for a Pavement Surety Bond of $5000, so ask up front whether yours will. You can read the full list in the city's permit requirements.
A new installed concrete slab in Dallas usually runs about $4 to $11 per square foot. Where a garage floor lands in that range depends mostly on tear-out and how much base work it needs, and your written estimate shows what yours covers.
The City of Balch Springs Building Permit covers most kinds of construction, and its list names things like sheds, carports and building changes, not garage floors, so whether yours needs a permit is a question for the city. We check with the city or county office on every job. When a permit is needed, we file it, book the inspections, which the city takes by email at inspections@balchspringstx.gov, and tie the pour date to them. The city also requires every contractor to be registered with it, which is worth asking about before you hire anyone.
About 48% of the soil area in Dallas County is high shrink-swell clay, ground that swells when it's wet and shrinks as it dries. That's a county figure, not a reading of your lot, but it's why I look so closely at the dirt once the old floor is up. We're based in Balch Springs and do the same work across the cities around it, including Mesquite, Garland, Forney and Lancaster.
Have the garage size, whether the old floor comes out and any HOA rules handy when you call (214) 286-6733, and we can cover most of what I need on the first call.
If you have a question about your garage floor before you're ready for an estimate, send it our way.
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